Reaching Dhaulagiri I, the seventh-highest mountain in the world at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet), is a challenging but rewarding endeavor. Here’s a detailed guide on how to plan and execute a successful expedition to Dhaulagiri I:
1. Preparation
Physical Training:
- Endurance Training: Long hikes, trail running, and endurance workouts.
- Strength Training: Focus on leg strength, core stability, and upper body strength.
- Altitude Training: Train at high altitudes and train at trekking peak first
Technical Skills:
- Climbing Skills: Ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and glacier travel techniques.
- Navigation Skills: Map reading, GPS navigation, and route planning.
Gear Preparation:
- Climbing Gear: Ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, climbing ropes, carabiners, and ascenders.
- Camping Gear: Sleeping bags for extreme cold temperature.
- Clothing: Layered clothing for extreme cold, including thermal base layers, insulated jackets, and waterproof outerwear.
2. Permits and Regulations
Permits:
- Trekking Permit: Obtain a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card from the Nepal Tourism Board.
- Climbing Permit: Secure a Dhaulagiri I climbing permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association or the Department of Tourism.
Insurance:
- Travel Insurance: Comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude climbing, medical evacuation, and trip cancellation.
3. Planning the Expedition
Route and Itinerary:
- Base Camp Trek: The standard approach is via the Dhaulagiri Base Camp Trek, which takes approximately 2-3 weeks.
- Typical Itinerary:
- Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu.
- Day 2: Fly to Pokhara.
- Day 3: Drive from Pokhara to Beni.
- Day 4-7: Trek from Beni to Dhaulagiri Base Camp.
- Day 8-XX: Acclimatization and climbing the mountain.
- Final Days: Return to Kathmandu via Pokhara.
Local Support:
- Expedition Organizer: Consider hiring a local guide or working with a trekking agency specializing in high-altitude expeditions. Local guides are necessary for these trips as well:
- Manaslu expedition
- Ama Dablam expedition
- Lobuche peak climb
- Mera Peak climb
- Baruntse expedition
- Island peak climb
- Everest climb or everest expedition
- Lhotse expedition
- Porters and Sherpas: Engage porters for carrying supplies and Sherpas for high-altitude support.
4. The Trek to Base Camp
Transportation:
- Kathmandu to Pokhara: Domestic flight or a long road drive.
- Pokhara to Beni: Private vehicle or local bus.
Trekking Stages:
- Beni to Babichaur: Acclimatize as you trek through forests and villages.
- Babichaur to Dharapani: Continue through terraced fields and mountain paths.
- Dharapani to Muri: Hike through remote villages and diverse terrain.
- Muri to Boghara: Cross over rivers and rocky paths.
- Boghara to Dhaulagiri Base Camp: Reach the base camp, where you will prepare for the ascent.
5. Climbing Dhaulagiri I
Acclimatization:
- Establish Camps: Set up high camps for acclimatization (Camp I, Camp II, Camp III).
- Climb Strategy: Typically involves climbing in stages, with rest periods at high camps.
Climbing Conditions:
- Weather: Be prepared for harsh weather conditions, including strong winds and heavy snowfall.
- Altitude Sickness: Monitor for symptoms and adjust your ascent pace as needed.
6. Return Journey
Descent:
- Return to Base Camp: Carefully descend back to the base camp.
- Trek Out: need to follow the same route back to Beni and then to Pokhara.
- Pokhara to Kathmandu: Fly or drive back to Kathmandu for your departure.
The best time to climb Dhaulagiri I is crucial for maximizing your chances of success and safety so choose wisely. The optimal time depends on various factors including weather conditions, climbing routes, and personal acclimatization. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you decide the best time to visit Dhaulagiri I for a climb: